Written by:
Jane Nisbet Huseby, owner Oslo Wine School
The very exciting news just released last night is that Don Melchor 2021 has been awarded Best Wine of the Year 2024 by Wine Spectator. This shows the true potential of Chile to produce outstanding fine wines, in particular from Cabernet Sauvignon.
Don Melchor, the iconic wine from Chile, originates from a single vineyard in D.O. Puente Alto, which is tucked in towards the foothills of the Andes in the Alto Maipo area of the Maipo valley. On either side of the vineyards, the sprawling capital city of Santiago has reached its borders.
For anyone who really knows their Cabernet Sauvignons, they will have long recognised the quality and potential of the wines of this area. This area of the Maipo valley has excellent growing conditions combining ancient alluvial soils, warm sunny days and cool nights creating a huge diurnal difference, ideal for retaining fresh acidity, slowing down ripening to gain more fruit complexity and fine tannins that have reached full phenolic ripeness. This is a winemaker´s dream for Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends and home to many of Chile´s iconic red blends. For me, having lived in Chile and worked with many wineries there, it really is the “Holy-grail”!
Let´s have a look at why in particular Don Melchor has become the top wine of the Year by Wine Spectator.
The Don Melchor vineyard is on a unique plot. Vines were first planted in the area by the visionary Don Melchor Concha y Toro in 1883, who brings back vines from Bordeaux and establishes Viña Concha y Toro in Pirque, Puente Alto.
Fast-forward to 1984. Emilie Peynaud (1912 – 2004), the famous Bordeaux enologist and researcher who is credited as the forefather of modern oenology in Bordeaux and for revolutionizing winemaking in Bordeaux in the late 20th Century visits the Don Melchor vineyards in Chile. Peynaud is amazed by what he finds here, the quality of the terroir is perfect for making high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon.
Just to put this in perspective what this means, Peynaud is quoted as being the world´s most influential enolgists and was mentor to Paul Pontallier, the famous director of First Growth Chateau Margaux. Peynaud also consulted for Antinori on its Super-Tuscans Solaia and Tignanello, as well as Lynch-Bages in Pauillac. He ran a prolific wine consultancy business with Jacques Boissenot, who also consulted for four of the five First Growths in Bordeaux including Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour and Château Margaux as well as many other prestigious properties.
The first vintage 1987 was released in 1989 marking a new era for developement of excellence as Chile´s first icon wine with the assistance of their French advisors. The following vintage 1988 became a sensation when in 1992 it was announced as one of the top 100 of Wine Spectator. Enrique Tirado was already working for Concha y Toro, however in 1997 he became the exclusive winemaker and caretaker of the Don Melchor vineyards and visionary mind developing its unique and elegant style. The following year in 1988, Almaviva another iconic Chilean fine wine is established on an adjacent plot to the Don Melchor vineyards in a joint-venture by Concha y Toro now a leading wine family in Chile together with Baron Philippe de Rothschild in Pauillac.
By 2014, Don Melchor grows from strength to strength, as the Don Melchor team led by Enrique Tirado strive even further for perfection, developing micro-plots in the vineyard, conducting micro-studies for further improvements in the vineyard and in winemaking to attain perfection. Don Melchor is now achieving either perfect or near-perfect scores from leading international wine critics including Jancis Robinson, James Suckling and Wine Spectator.
I have met Enrique Tirado the Chief Winemaker of Don Melchor on numerous occasions. Each time I meet him, I am inspired by his dedication, focus on details, his visionary mind and by the fact that he is such a down-to-earth very likeable and approachable person. I met him most recently in Oslo, when he presented a vertical tasting of Don Melchor. He has been the Chief winemaker for more than 25 years, yet he says there is so much more still to be done. So I needed to ask him more about this and this is what he shared:
He told me his aim is to show the unique personality, the purest essence of the Puente Alto terroir and elegance. Here the soils are alluvial deposits from the Andes carried down by the River Maipo. The soils are stoney, deep yet with low nutrients and these ancient terraces are often likened to left-bank Bordeaux. The climate here is quite particular. In this part of Chile, they have a semi-arid Mediterranean climate. This means that it usually doesn´t rain during the growing season, and the summers are quite warm. However, in D.O. Puente Alto, cold winds blow down from the nearby high Andes mountains, which gives an enormous difference between day and night temperatures, often up to 20’C difference even in the middle of summer.
Enrique explained that their focus today is Agrio-ecology – protecting the viticulture of origin, throught viticulture management, sustainability and innovative practices to protect and preserve the unique identity of the area. This includes preserving biodiversity with biological corridors with over 20 different native species of plants endemic to the Andes foothills, installing bird boxes and perches and creating ponds which will attract birds of prey, and small reptiles which act as natural pest control, as well as using only natural fertilization rather than chemicals.
The Don Melchor vineyard is a 127 ha plot, divided into 7 different parcels or blocks mainly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (90%), Cabernet Franc (7,1%), Merlot (1,9%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Each block has been carefully defined according to the characteristics of the fruit that derives from this particular terroir. Enrique Tirado started vineyard mapping as early as 1997, well before many of the Bordeaux estates, allowing them to have detailed analysis of each block. For example, in Block 1, Cabernet Sauvignon produces ripe red fruit, complex yet refined sweet tannins, yet in Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon produces black fruits, complexity and spices with structure through mellow tannins.
From these 7 blocks, Enrique makes more than 150 micro-fermentations! With samples of his 150 ferments, after the harvest Enrique then travels to Bordeaux every year for a week of blending and discussions with Eric Boissenot, the son of the former consultant Jacques Boissenot. It is here that the final blend is decided, and the Don Melchor selection is then aged in French oak (the amount of new oak varies with the vintage) for 12 – 14 months in Puente Alto in Chile.
Copyright images: All images are copyright Concha y Toro, Chile. All rights reserved
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DID YOU KNOW:
The Maipo valley is the Grand Dame of Chilean wine regions. Whilst wine was first produced here during colonial times, wealthy families in the 18th Century brought back vines from France and planted them in the Maipo wine region close to Santiago the capital city.
Maipo is particularly famous for producing top-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines including Don Melchor, Almaviva, Viñedo Chadwick, Silencio Cono Sur, Viña El Principal, Montes Muse, Santa Rita Casa Real, Cousiño Macul Lota Red, MontGras Intriga, Antiyal, Gandolini Las 3 Marias vineyards.
Chile is the fifth-largest producer of wines in the world.
About tasting notes by Jane Nisbet Huseby
OBS: Hvorfor er smaksnotatene på engelsk? Jane Nisbet Huseby har engelsk som morsmål og synes at det gir mer forståelse til leseren, av vinens nyanser i detaljer når hun skriver på engelsk enn på norsk slik at dette kan hjelpe leseren videre i sin vinforståelse.
VMP: 9787501 (-> Link til VMP side)
Price: 1199,90
The 35th vintage of Don Melchor. Now Wine Spectators Wine of the Year 2024!
2021 was a cooler harvest with average temperature of 17.6’C between January and April which is lower than the historic average of 18’C. Rain was slightly lower than normal. Winemaking: Cabernet Sauvignon 93%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Merlot 3%. Aged 15 months in French oak (71% new). 14.5% abv
Tasting notes: Very fresh and elegant nose. Youthful red plums, cherries, violets, blackberries, and raspberries. Very well balanced with a firm acidic backbone and polished firm tannins. Linear and elegant with a long finish. Built to last. Can it get better than this? Outstanding. Points: 99 (at least!)
VMP: 13491401 (-> Link til VMP side)
Price: 1199,90
2020 stood out for its warm temperatures in the second half of spring and summer. Historically high temperatures of 19,5’C between January and April, and very low rainfall – 88,7mm compared to historical average of 335mm, resulting in an earlier harvest than normal. Although it was hotter than normal, the nigh temperatures were lower than normal and helped preserve intense fruit expression, balance and harmony. Managed to bring in all fruit just before Covid restrictions imposed.
Winemaking: Cabernet Sauvignon 92%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Merlot 1%, Petit Verdot 1%. Aged 15 months in French oak (71% new)
Tasting notes: Intense and ripe black fruit – blackberries, spice, red and black plums, and spicy notes. Fine acidic backbone, full-bodied with firm yet round more honeyed chewy tannins, spicy notes. Great structure and long finish. Built to last but will mature more quickly perhaps due to warm vintage expression. Points: 97
VMP: 1365001 (-> Link til VMP side)
Price: 1199,90
2019 temperatures were closer to normal, but with higher temperatures in November (fruit-set) and in January and February that encouraged production of tannins and colour. Very low rainfall. Winemaking: Cabernet Sauvignon 92%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Merlot 1%, Petit Verdot 1%. Aged 15 months in French oak (71% new)
Tasting notes: Intense black fruit, blackberries, mulberries, red and black plums, layered with dark spices, liquorice, smoke. On the palate lifted acidity provides great structure balancing the more powerful fruit and firm graphite-like tannins. This is starting to reveal more depth – evolving leather, umami notes and liquorice. More weight mid-palate than the 2020 and more power. Requires more aging and has a long potential. If open now, make sure it´s decanted for at least 3 hours. Points: 96,5
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