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Cava – focus on terroir
The Cava category has had quite a hard time, especially since Prosecco joined the sparkling wine scene, but thankfully DO Cava has started to listen, and with more recent changes to the DO Cava regulations, hopefully, the top quality produces will again become more visible.
Less than 5 years ago, some of the top producers representing the majority of the Gran Reserva Cava category declared they´d had enough. The market was flooded with cheap Cavas that barely represented the category. They demanded that DO Cava needed to make significant commitments and changes to ensure quality or they would leave the DO.
Following repeated discussions with the DO Cava about their concerns and deciding that the DO hadn´t made sufficient efforts, some of the top producers rebelled and left to form their own independent group of quality-conscious Cava producers under the denomination Corpinnat in 2017
I am sure this must have come as quite a shock to DO Cava, who rapidly after revised the classification of DO Cava. Today´s stricter regulations and more quality-focus reflect designations that became legal in 2020 and now include Guarda de Cava, Guarda de Cava Reserva, Guarda de Cava Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado. Stricter regulations mean more focus on time on lees during the second fermentation which gives more complexity, as well as organic production, control of yields, sustainability, and expression of site terroir.
Whilst some quality producers left the DO Cava, others stayed, having long established their quality reputation unaffected by the turbulences of the market. One of the quality producer who stayed in DO Cava is the family-owned Cava producer Kripta – Agustí Torelló Mata
Agustí Torelló Mata Cava
Agustí Torelló Mata, worked in Freixent in the late 1970s. He had a vision of making «the greatest sparkling wine in the world» and as a kind of retirement project, he created Kripta. He started creating his own wines in the 1950s from his base in San Sadurni d´Anoia in Penedes. Today, his two sons Alex and Gemma continue his work and his commitment to excellence. From a total of 150 parcels of vines, all organically farmed and hand-harvested, amazing Cavas are produced from indigenous varieties Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, as well as Trepat for rosé wines. The vineyards are all located within the historical Cava zone south of Barcelona in Valls d´Anoia-Foix which lies between the Mediterranean Sea and the Montserrat mountain range.
Source: Agusti Torello Mata
Agustí Torelló Kripta brut Nature 2010
What perhaps catches your eye with Kripta is the unusual amphorae shape bottle which makes it quite a challenge to uncork! The bottle shaped was specially designed and patented as a tribute to Ancient Rome, whilst the unusual label reflects images of the Mediterranean Sea, the vine and an olive tree – a trilogy of the classics.
Did you know: Kripta is the most awarded Cava since it won its first gold medal in Bratislava in 1984.
Based on a blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parelleda, each of these varieties add uniquness to the blend. Macabeo provides elegnacen, freshness and finesse with white fruits, whilst Xarel-lo gives power, body and structure. Parellada on the other hand gives great concentration of aromas, acidity and tropical notes. Aged for a minimum of 4 years on the lees using the traditional method (same as in Champagne), this truly is an exception Cava often quoted amongst the best sparkling wines of the world.
Agustí Torelló Kripta Brut Nature 2010Pris: 779,20 kr.
Kjøp på Vinmonopolet
Agusti Torello Mata
Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo. Miniumum 48 months ageing on lees
can drink now, but has sufficient acidity and complexity to hold at least another 3 - 4 years or more
Medium gold. Beautiful ripe baked apricots, brioche, toast, citrus, honey and hints of smoke. Lovely crisp acidity, with fine bubbles, very good concentration on the palate, finesse and a long finish. Very elegant wine – I think this is the best Cava I have ever tasted. (2010 vintage). We planned to have this an aperitif, however it worked beautifully with unsmoked pinnekjøttVurdering:
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